I have heard it said that "It's your Camino. Do it the way you want!" I certainly did that, but I also wanted to be cognizant of and faithful to the pilgrims who walked this way before me. Around 800 years ago, pilgrims started leaving their homes to walk to Santiago. After arriving and resting, they turned around and walked back home.
The Camino de Santiago has been designated a Plenary Indulgence in the Catholic church, meaning that if you complete the pilgrimage, your sins are all forgiven. I am not Catholic, but my reading indicates that the early Church looked at indulgences as a way to encourage people to live according to God's precepts in their daily life. Indulgences eventually were twisted into things you could buy and sell. But as someone who strives to live a contemplative life, I like the idea of encouraging people to live their lives according to their faith. I believe that when your faith is a part of your daily life, you find joy.
That was the first gift I received on the Camino: a feeling of joy that I was actually there after three years of planning. I was taking part in this incredible ritual and at the same time discovering the beauty of Spain's landscape and its people.
The second gift was forgiveness for myself. It was much harder to walk the Camino than I had anticipated. On day 4 I had started to break down. On day 6 I told Debbie and Mary that I didn't think I could complete the journey. They both told me not to quit, and with Debbie's help I was able to complete it. I was able to forgive my weakness and accept that I did pretty well for a 69 year old with numerous health issues.
The third gift was all the Spanish people we met. They went out of their way to help us navigate the vagaries of staying in various cities along the Camino. I had made the arrangements, mostly through Booking.com before we left. I was expecting to find a sort of reception desk at each place, but the first three days, when Mary arrived ahead of us to hang out while Debbie and I hiked the trail, there was no one there and no indication of how to access our room. In each case, Mary, who speaks no Spanish, found a local shop owner or other local to contact management and get her in our room. By the time Debbie and I arrived, Mary would be relaxing on the balcony or in a nearby park or square waiting for us. I like to think God was watching out for her.
I was also impressed by the Spanish women running the restaurants we ate at. More often then not, two women would be the only people behind the counter, one cooking and the other acting as host/wait person. No matter how busy they got, they reacted to us with patience, kindness and grace.
I remember in particular two occasions. The Spanish generally follow the practice of Siesta. Most restaurants are closed between 2 and 8 pm. Our preference was for dinner around 5:30 or 6:00 pm. We could usually find some sort of bar/bistro that was serving food, but in Caldas de Reis we seemed to have run dry. Then we found this little bar, operated by two women, of course. They said they had a very limited selection of food. We said we would "eat whatever you've got." A little later they brought out three big plates: one of a salad with onions and tomatoes, one of French fries, and one of fried chicken. They were each delicious, and we filled up with three chicken legs left over. We heaped our praise on the chef, who was obviously pleased at our enjoyment of her food.
The other special meal was when Debbie and I ordered gazpacho at a cafe in Santiago. The host/chef told us about how she chose and prepared the tomatoes for the soup with real pride. I have never liked gazpacho, but after that description I had to try it. It was bliss. The tomato taste was incredible! I would say that it was the best bowl of soup I have ever had.
The Camino can be magical. I remember feeling worn out and struggling to keep going when a group of five or six women passed me and began singing in perfect harmony a folk song. It was like a dream. The next day a tiny elderly woman passed me. As she did she broke into a wide smile, looked directly into my eyes, and wished me a "Buen Camino!" Then she and her family broke into a rousing song as she hiked on.
I feel so blessed and fortunate to have finally made this pilgrimage. The pain has faded, but these memories live on. I believe that God's spirit resides inside each of us, and the Camino is filled with people exhibiting that spirit. It is a wonderful place to be.
Special thanks: The following people deserve my special thanks.
My boss Ted and my former boss Leslie. Three years ago for St. James' feast day, Ted wrote a reflection in which he referred to the Camino. I had never heard of it before. He had no idea what a spark he put in my life. Leslie always encouraged me in my spiritual development, and we talked of the Camino often while I waited out Covid.
Missioners and Camino veterans, Jim and Marilyn, Heidi, Richard and Sami. They answered my questions, they gave excellent advice, and provided all kinds of support to my pilgrimage. My spiritual director Jeanine, who always knows the right questions to ask.
Most of all, my companera Debbie and my life partner, Mary. I had planned on hiking alone, but God sent me Debbie, and She knew what I needed. Mary has played down any contribution to my journey, but just having her there at the end of each day meant everything to me.
Many others provided encouragement and support, and I am grateful to each of you.
